Friday, September 25, 2009

Wednesday, September 23: Into the Wilderness

I received an unexpected phone call from atop Mount Barren and will do my best to retell what I believe I heard through the rush of the wind.

For $20 a piece, Madeline, Jonathan, Swift and Dream Catcher got a ride from Gorham, New Hampshire to Monson, Maine with a stop at a Walmart on the way to fill out their supplies for this northernmost leg of the journey. Monson is the starting point for what is known as the 100 mile stretch of wilderness. Unlike most areas of the trail, there are not places to hop off the trail as needed for resupply. This interior stretch of Maine has limited access to civilization. I was told not to expect phone calls through here. (I got lucky.) They hosteled for the evening at a place which is known for its breakfast - all you can eat french toast or pancakes, eggs and home fries. I am told Jonathan ate something like 8 eggs, 8 pancakes and home fries. I don't know where he puts all this food; I doubt he weighs 140 pounds soaking wet.

Tuesday, Madeline, Dream Catcher and Swift took advantage of a slack packing opportunity and were dropped at a spot north and then hiked south while Jonathan chose to hike north, pack in tow. Jonathan reconnected with some hikers he hadn't seen for awhile - Stick-Cake, You and Sea Bass. Stick-Cake (actually 2 hikers ) happen to be Skidmore graduates (Jonathan began his college experience at Skidmore). He met up with You and Sea Bass at a spectacular waterfall, rushing down sheer drops of slate. A big campfire and cowboy camping under the stars rounded out a very good day. After a couple days off the trail, Jonathan was eager to be walking again. In an effort to reduce the load they are carrying, they left their tent behind in the hostel. They are carrying way more food to take them through this wilderness stretch than they have carried on any leg so far. Something had to go.

Madeline's slack pack covered about 15 miles but took much longer than anticipated. They began at 10:30 am and didn't complete their stretch till 9:30 pm. Therefore, Madeline, Swift and Dream Catcher had a stretch of night hiking with only one headlamp between the three of them. Dream Catcher was the only one with the foresight to bring one. Leave it to the mature woman to have the necessary accessories. Madeline said it reminded her of the three fates from Greek mythology who shared one eye between them. Prior to reaching their destination, they were "rescued" by a trail angel named Patio, who has been a regular angel of the trail in Vermont for the last nine years. He had driven up to Maine to meet up with some friends and heard from the hostel that there were three slack packers who had not yet returned. I suspect it can be rather dark on the trail at night. He headed up the trail with an extra headlamp and emergency flashlight in search. He did connect and helped light their way back to his car where he fortified them with chocolate milk and candy bars, gave them a lift to a gas station to pick up a sandwich for dinner and then back to the hostel for the night. It was a satisfying day.

Wednesday, Madeline got a ride back to the point where she had begun her slack pack the day before and was to head south a bit to the shelter where she was to reconnect with Jonathan. Swift and Dream Catcher chose to take a day off the trail. Madeline headed north instead of south which set the wrong course for the day. She received word up the trail from another hiker that Jonathan was south and waiting. She turned around and headed south to meet him. He could not understand how she could confuse those two basic directions. (I can.) Things fell further apart from there. Tears aplenty on one end, frustration on the other, and short miles in between.

On the brighter side, the first moose sighting occurred today. From a privy, Madeline heard quite a bit of noise outside and discovered a very large bull moose with a huge rack of antlers but 10 feet from her when she exited the privy. In an effort to get Jonathan's attention, she got the moose's attention and he ambled away. Jonathan's sighting therefore wasn't as up close and personal.

This stretch of Maine is experiencing Indian summer right now with warm temps and sunshine. October Maine weather will undoubtedly return and Jonathan has finally requested his winter trail coat be sent to the next mail drop which will be back in Monson after this wilderness stretch and the ascent of Mount Katahdin, the ending point in Maine, and perhaps the ending point for Madeline's journey as well, though she has not yet shut the door on possibility. It's not over till the fat lady sings and though I've heard some notes, the song has not been sung. ~ Amy



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