Monday September 28th: Not Exactly Wilderness

There are ways to reach 'civilization' during the wilderness stretch to Katahdin. I received a call from White House Landing, a hostel on the far side of Pemadumcook Lake. The Landing offers bunk house, restaurant and limited groceries, which they were going to need in order to make it to Katahdin. By their calculations, they were coming up short 3 breakfasts and 1 dinner (purchased instant oatmeal and Kraft mac 'n cheese). After a 16 mile day yesterday, they had the opportunity to detour off the trail and hike to a lake, on the other side of which is the hostel. Upon reaching the boat dock, there is an air horn which you blast (just once) and then wait for a boat to arrive to pick you up and ferry you to the hostel on the other side. This is what they did, as well as some of the pack of other hikers they are currently aligned with in this trek to Katahdin - Puddles, Shameless, Cloud Walker, You and Sea Bass. They ate pizza, Ben & Jerry's, apple pie and fudge brownies (does that cover all the food groups?). The bunk house is heated by wood stove and got nice and toasty over night. As is usual, Madeline was the only female in sight. All you can eat breakfast is included in the hostel price, which at $40 is a bit pricey, but the people who run it are very nice and it's the only show in town.

Madeline lost her little zippered pouch that she kept her money, debit card, ID, health insurance card and her sacred arrowhead in. She called to have me cancel the debit card. She will proceed for now on Jonathan's dime. She last had it at the hostel in Monson, Maine and has called them to see if it turned up - it hasn't. They think it is probably in the woods along the trail somewhere, in which case, someone may well find it and return it to her someday. I suspect hikers are a very honest bunch. She is very upset about the arrow head. My mother gave it to her before they left. Her father had found it as a little boy in the same area of Pennsylvania where they began their trek north. He in turn gave it to my mom as a good luck talisman when she was about ten. In the story my mom wrote to Madeline about the arrowhead, she said,

Perhaps the spirit of that Indian, who made the arrowhead and surely walked where you will be walking, will be with you and Jonathan on your trek. It might be nice to have his company!

I feel hopeful she will see it again. Jonathan had a nice take on the loss though. He said that if it were not found and returned, it was at least returned to the land from where it came and will someday be found again by someone who may also feel protected by it. I think her grandmother can live with that.

Weather-wise, they had a drizzly day yesterday and one cold day with a cold, cold wind blowing, but otherwise it has been perfect fall hiking weather. They are on relatively flat land in forest bright with the fall colors of changing leaves. The sunlight through the leaves of the birches makes the forest look golden. The forest floor is carpeted with red maple. Jonathan has seen a pine marten which is a furry, weasel-like tree climber.

One night following a 15 mile day, they arrived at the shelter at 9:30 pm only to find it already full. They began the night cowboy camping but as rain moved in, they pulled a bench under the overhang of the shelter and both slept on that. They are regretting their decision to leave their tent in Monson. There have been some really nice camping areas away from shelters that they would have liked to take advantage of, but with threat of rain, shelters are the better option.

Jonathan described to me what is known as the hiker hobble. When hikers are not hiking, their movements are such that they appear to be either very old or very messed up. They limp and hobble and have a hard time bending down. It is quite a sight to see all the hikers at the shelters as they prepare their camp and meals in the evening and again in the morning moving about in the same lame way. However, once the packs are strapped back on, the legs move and the body is propelled forward; the hobble is gone. Madeline says she heard one hiker comment that he is looking forward to walking without wincing. This group that they are currently paced with are all thru hikers from Georgia,. It is a group that is anxiously anticipating going home.

They have 38 miles to go to Baxter State Park where they will begin their ascent of Katahdin either Wednesday or Thursday. Although the jury is still out, Madeline is leaning towards ending her hike after climbing Katahdin. I will be sad to see the end. ~ Amy

Every part of this soil is sacred. Every hillside, every valley, every plain and grove has been hallowed by some sad or happy event in days long vanished. - Chief Seattle