Monday, July 27, 2009

Monday, July 27: On the Trail Again

The replacement boots arrived via express mail this morning and the hikers are back on the trail again. They have been restless, camping outside of Pawling, NY since Friday. Luckily there was a book store in town as reading was their only diversion (Madeline is on her fifth book since Friday).

They carry their extra water in plastic water bladders (flexible sacks); two of the three they had have bitten the dust so they had to purchase bottled water to hike with until their next opportunity for a gear store in Cornwall, CT. They hope to put in some good miles today.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

New York: Lost Boots and a Sprained Ankle

The hikers arrived in NYC at noon on Wednesday and caught the train back to Pawling, NY at midnight Thursday. It was a whirlwind two days with lots of walking and exploration - Statue of Liberty, China Town, Little Italy, Greenwhich Village, Times Square, library, Empire State Building, Central Park, Twin Towers site, bookstore and movie. They ate their way through bottomless soup and salad, pizza and pancakes. They were even able to find their next day's breakfast of pastries, muffins and donuts out by a bakery dumpster prior to catching the train back to Pawling. They appreciated beds and showers in the hostel.

When they returned to Pawling by train, the doors to their train car did not open at their stop and as they were running through the train to find an exit, Jonathan twisted his ankle...mishap#1. The following morning, Madeline discovered she no longer had her hiking boots - left behind in the hostel in NYC....mishap#2. Jonathan apparently had taken them out of her pack when looking for shampoo and had neglected to return them. Madeline didn't know they had been taken out and neither one did a thorough check to make sure everything was accounted for prior to leaving the hostel. The boots were in a garbage bag so not instantly recognizable.

Madeline spent the following day, Friday, hiking the two mile round trip back and forth from the camp site to town in order to get cell phone reception and try to locate her boots through the hostel. After many, many conversations, it was deemed a lost cause by Hostel staff Saturday morning. On the brighter side, Jonathan has had two days to rest his ankle, (which is feeling better), and will have one more day to take it easy as well. I expressed mailed her back-up boots (yikes! espensive!) Saturday - to be received Monday. Hopefully, they will be back on the trail sometime Monday. Another trail lesson learned I suspect.

They are still camping outside the Lion's Club which will be presenting live music tonight - a Frank Sinatra cover band - and that's the extent of Pawling's Saturday night entertainment. It doesn't get much more exciting than that!

This detour to New York and the subsequent mishaps have cost them nearly a week so the gap in their schedule is widening. When you intend to walk this far for this long, I don't think it much matters. After all, it's the journey, not the destination. I'll have to update their maildrop schedule to reflect their delays. ~Amy

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Madeline's First on the Trail Update

Hi All,
I am currently in NYC at Hosteling International. Walking around the city proved to be great fun.....wow what a change from walking in the woods. I have to pay for internet access so I am going to make my message short and sweet. We viewed the Statue of Liberty, (although we didn't go out to the island because that would have taken about 4 hours), visited China Town, Little Italy, Greenwich Village, and Times Square. Times Square was the biggest culture shock of all; it is everything you think about when you think of New York and more! Out of curiosity I went into a ginormous Toys-R-Us, complete with ferris wheel. Seth you would have liked it, floor to ceiling transformers, floor to ceiling star wars and of course most importantly of all, floor to ceiling Barbies. Haha. I am practically out of time. I love you all and thank you for the support.
Love
Madeline

July 21: Pawling, New York

The hikers are sitting in a laundromat washing up clothes in preparation for their detour into NYC tomorrow. Madeline has scrounged a left behind book from the laundromat to replace the last trade which she finished. This trail library system does seem to be working. On the AT there is a common belief in what is known as trail magic. When a hiker is in need of something on the trail, it has a tendency to present itself.

They fell short of their 19 mile goal on Saturday but made it a highly respectable 17 1/2. The average pace of a trail hiker is between 1 and 1 1/2 miles per hour. Up and down mountains with a pack is quite different from the pace of a city walk. They had managed to become separated on the trail Saturday when Jonathan returned to Graymoor for the phone. Madeline apparently lost the trail as Jonathan was returning to catch up. By the time she was back on the trail, Jonathan had already passed her by. She assumed he was still behind her and he assumed she was ahead of him. They had a predetermined spot to stop for lunch in the event they did not reconnect sooner. When Jonathan did not find Madeline at this lunch spot, because he had not passed her up, he assumed she went on ahead. After not sighting her in the next couple of hours, he stopped by a stream crossing to wait and perhaps get word of a Madeline sighting from another hiker. They both did in fact get the information they needed from another hiker, and eventually reconnected. They finally stopped to camp at 9:30 that night at an old farmstead , feet exhausted.

Madeline wasn't sure her feet would carry her forward the next day, however, once the boots were on and the hiking begun, she said they felt better. They made Sunday a lighter hike. Jonathan especially likes hiking the early mornings, and evenings as they turn to night. It's especially beautiful in the woods at those times.

Today it rained all day which takes its toll. Neither hiker is too happy with their boots. Although they are supposed to be waterproof, Jonathan's are not proving to be so. Madeline's hold out the water but the soles are beginning to separate from the uppers. They plan on phoning the manufacturer tomorrow to request a replacement pair be sent. Though they knew they would need to replace boots along the way, this is way too soon. I think gear manufacturers will generally stand behind their products.

Tonight they are in a camping permissible area in the town of Pawlings, outside a Lions Club, where according to Jonathan, there is a porch full of loud men. They plan to catch the train into NYC in the morning, spend Wednesday night at Hostelling International, and return by train to the trail at some point on Thursday. The detour should be good for morale. The hike is such a physical and psychological challenge, they both need propping up at times. They hope to be able to hit their next mail drop in Connecticut on Saturday. ~Amy

Sunday, July 19, 2009

July 19: Leaving Garrison, NY

I got a bonus phone call after Jonathan returned to last night's roosting place to retrieve their phone which had been charging and forgotten. They spent the night at Graymoor Spiritual Life Center which is a Roman Catholic religious community of the Franciscan Friars of the Atonement. They are located atop a mountain overlooking the Hudson River Valley and have been providing hospitality to hikers for many years. They stayed in a field with a community of a dozen or more other hikers, including 3 dogs. They enjoy the company of dogs. BAM was there as well as a group of 3 women. Madeline enjoys finding the company of other women for men far outnumber women on the trail. The Friars used to actually provide rooms, dinner, showers and laundry service to the hikers but perhaps the number of hikers has swelled beyond their capacity to do so anymore. The hikers had planned on a shorter day yesterday but plans were thwarted by a lack of water at their original destination so they pushed on another 5 miles to Graymoor (very thirsty) but well worth the extra miles. Water is filtered from streams along the way and with lack of rain, one can not always depend on the sources. They have a lofty goal of 19 miles today.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

July 18th: Ft. Montgomery, New York

Arrived this morning to pick up mail drop #2. They needed it - food supplies were down to nearly nothing. Ft. Montgomery is another tiny blip on the map - a deli, a bagel shop, a grocery store and a post office. They enjoyed breakfast of egg and cheese bagels, 2 donuts a piece and hash browns. Hikers have notoriously huge appetites when they hit a town. From what I've read, the average AT hiker burns 5,000 - 6,000 calories a day. Madeline read the book she acquired at the last mail drop (twice) and now has a book that Jonathan acquired by trading books with another hiker. I like this trail library system.

Have had some ups and downs this week but both Jonathan and Madeline are on sound footing. The terrain has changed somewhat. The mountain tops now have widely spaced trees with grass carpeting the spaces in between - good camping areas Jonathan says. Weather generally great - a day with some rain yesterday and a stormy night last night but neither event has taken a toll on spirits. They have added a (possible) rattlesnake to their list of wildlife sightings. In an area called Lemon Squeeze - a rocky area of tight squeezes between rocks - there was a snake consuming something furry in the path which lifted its tail and rattled as they made a wide pass. It did not, however, look like what they believed a rattle snake to look like (all black) so they aren't sure of its identity. They detoured for ice cream twice this week and hit a farmers market where they munched on cherries and cucumbers. They also detoured to Lake Tiorati Beach, Harriman State Park at Bear Mountain this week for beach time and a shower. These detours are good for morale.

They could see the New York city skyline from a mountain top view on a clear day a couple of days ago. They are actually planning on a day trip into the city next week. They will reach a point on the trail where they aren't far from a train station and for $23 for a round trip ticket, they thought they'd take advantage of the opportunity. They may spend a night at Hostelling International as well.

They have been hiking for several days with a mid-40's woman, also a flip-flop hiker who started the trail a bit south of them, a few days before their start. She goes by the trail name BAM and is hiking with her dog, a mutt named Rocky. They have pitched tents together and shared shelters for several nights now. They are both enjoying her company and the company of a dog! BAM has been planning this trip for 8 years now to coincide with the high school graduation of her last child.

Trail names are a tradition on the AT. Sometimes people decide what they want to be known as on their hike, but more often, they evolve circumstantially. Jonathan has not yet acquired his trail name, but Madeline was given hers this week by BAM and another hiker, Fidget. She is now La cucaracha (the cockroach). For whatever reason, she doesn't mind. This came about around a campfire a couple of nights ago when a toad was hopping around the campfire. In true Madeline fashion, she scooped him up and moved him a safe distance away. Next came the largest black beetle that Jonathan said he had ever seen. There was some discussion as to whether it was a beetle or a cockroach, but regardless, again in true Madeline fashion, she scooped him up and moved him also a safe distance away as Fidget sang La cucaracha. She was bitten in the process and thus a trail name was born.

They have had two run-ins with police this week. Their original intention was to camp in town last night, but after getting lost on Bear Mountain for awhile, they couldn't make it in so they camped with BAM near a service road on Bear Mountain (not in a designated camping spot). It stormed throughout the night and as they were all sound asleep in their tents, a police car pulled up, shinning its lights on their tents and ordered them out. He requested identification and took their ID's back to his car while they stood in the storm getting soaked. He then asked that they vacate by daybreak. They were thankful they didn't have to move in the middle of the night but it seemed a bit over dramatic none the less.

The second run-in occurred as they were sitting in the parking lot of the post office in Fort Montgomery this morning talking to me on the phone. A police came by and started questioning them and again asked to see identification. He seemed clueless as to the whole concept of thru hikers on the Appalachian Trail. Jonathan thought that was a bit odd considering their proximity to the trail. Perhaps there is not enough for the police to do in this area.

On the flip side, there are Trail Angels, somewhat common along the AT. They are people who choose to do nice things for hikers, (sometimes former hikers themselves). They have met two this week. One gave them pop, fresh fruit and candy; the other gave them a 6 pack of bottled water.

Though Madeline has experienced a couple of days of emotional pangs/longings for home, she is a trooper, and has bounced back well each time. Jonathan is extremely supportive. Physically, they are doing great - feeling stronger with each passing day. Jonathan says Madeline has never complained of being tired, of her pack being heavy, of her feet hurting, or anything. In true Madeline fashion, she is living in the moment.

They have not had any opportunity for Internet access yet, but I look forward to the time when they can tell a chapter of their own story first hand. If you are following their journey but have not yet signed in as a follower, please take a minute to do so. Feel free to add your encouragement or whatever parcels of wisdom you may have in the comments section. They will draw strength from your support. ~ Amy

Sunday, July 12, 2009

July 10th: Unionville, New York

They arrived in the town of their first mail drop Friday night (a little behind projected schedule). Unionville, New York has 4 establishments - post office, general store, used book store and the Back Track Inn (bar, restaurant and hostel). This hostel (their first) was nothing more than a storage shed behind the Inn, complete with shelving to lie on and a bathroom available in the Inn during business hours (but no showers). These accommodations had been appropriately dubbed The Royal Order of the Shelf by a previous hiker. The cost was $3 per person so I guess you get what you pay for. Madeline, who left for the trail with one book in her pack, has left her completed book in this first hostel and purchased a second one at the used book store. This book store, conveniently enough, has books to purchase even when closed. A selection of books is available outside with a money box for paying on the honor system - thoughtful.

They have been hiking in areas of dense healthy forest with great diversity in plant life and teaming with interesting fungus - huge red toadstools, clusters of neon orange toadstools that give the impression of paint on the ground and a fungus that looks like pools of melted red wax. The forest opens up to ridge line a couple of times each day providing breath taking views. They have supplemented their provisions with wild blueberries and blackberries. They have encountered many newts, frogs, toads, birds, horses, a groundhog, a duck and 2 black bears. Part of their hike has cut across private property - meadow land which has fence lines that are traversed via ladders. They have also hiked a lowland section of swamp. Weather has been great - one brief thunderstorm for the week. They have had one uncomfortable night in a lowland shelter teaming with mosquitoes. They detoured off the trail on Friday for High Point State Park where there was swimming, showers, grilled cheese sandwiches and an opportunity to wash out clothing. Their longest day so far has been 16 miles. They have encountered other hikers along the trail, but have not encountered crowded shelters. With the exception of an Outward Bound group camping nearby, there may be another person or two around when they end their day. They are both happy and well.

This resupply point was the first of 27. Their packs weighed between 40-45 pounds as they began the trail, but they lighten some each day as supplies are consumed. They headed back on the trail Saturday afternoon with their packs again heavy. They appreciate all who are sharing their adventure. - Amy

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

and so they begin
























July 5, 2009
The journey begins at Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvannia

Their thru hike plan is what is referred to as flip-flopping. They are beginning in the middle of the trail and heading to the northern most point in Maine, then returning to Delaware Water Gap by bus and beginning the trek south to Georgia. The typical hiker begins in Georgia and hikes north to Maine. Such a journey usually begins early in the spring so as to be completed prior to the severe winter weather that frequently forces the northern end of the trail to close by mid-October. This typical timing did not work for them since Madeline was still completing her senior year of high school in the spring. This is the plan they determined to be the most workable for them. It was an emotional beginning. - Amy














Friday, July 3, 2009

List of places we will be picking up mail

11/15 This list of maildrops is revised yet again.

Here's a list of the places and dates where we will be picking up mail if any one wants to write us or send us goodies like gumdrops and treacle fudge...

Address our mail like this:

Madeline and Jonathan Murray
c/o General Delivery
Address
Please hold for A.T. Thru-hiker
Date we expect to pick up package


Follow this format, except when it is a store or hostel, then replace c/0 general delivery with c/o the name of the business

July 8: Unionville, NY 10988
July13: Ft. Montgomery, NY 10922
July 29: Cornwall Bridge, Conn 06754
August 8: Dalton, Mass 01226
August 13: The Mountain Goat
4886 Main Street
Manchester, VT 05255
August 30: Hanover Outdoors
17 1/2 Lebanon Street
Hanover, NH 03755
September 4: Franconia State Park
Lafayette Place Campground
Franconia, NH 03580
September 9: Gorham, NH 03581
Beginning date changes here if they head back south through the leapfrogged section:
(Bear in mind these are but rough guesstimates)
October 2: Monson, ME 04464
October 7: Stratton Motel and Hostel
PO Box 284
Stratton ME 04982
NOW OBSOLETE:
October 11: South Arm Campground
PO Box 310
Andover ME 04216
ALSO OBSOLETE:
October 3: Delaware Water Gap, PA 18327
NEXT MAIL DROP COMING UP:
October 22: Ye Olde Backpacker
45 Penn Street
Port Clinton, PA 17007
October 29: Boiling Springs, PA 17007
November 5: Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17214
November 10: Harpers Ferry, WV 25425
November 21: Linden VA 22642
November 24: Elkton, VA 22827
November 30: Waynesboro, VA 22642
December 5: Middle Creek Campground
1164 Middle Creek Road
Buchanan, VA 24066
December 9: Catawaba, VA 24070
December 14: Pearisburg, VA 24134
December 21: Atkins, VA 24311
December 26: Damascus, VA 24236
December 31: Mountain Harbor B&B and Hostel
9151 Highway19-E
Roan Mt., TN 37687
January 7: The Sunny Bank Inn
26 Walnut Street
PO Box 233
Hot Springs, NC 28743
January 18: Fontana Dam, NC 28733
January 25: Hiawassee, GA 30546

We greatly appreciate anything anyone wants to send us :)

Jonathan's Intro

A journey of over 2100 miles, a 5-6 month walk in the woods stretched across 13 states: getting this trip organized has been quite a challenge. It took a year of steady planning which climaxed in two months of highly focused work, working between 50-70 hrs a week; this has been a true test of discipline and perseverance.

I feel like I have adequately prepared us for this journey, but I know that there is only one thing that will carry us across the country: will power. The key to success in this journey and all of life is will power. This journey has come to symbolize that life, human potential, and the cosmos are limitless; we can achieve any goal, no matter how great, no matter what obstacles lay in our path. Decide what you want, focus on that goal and nothing can stop you; human potential is limitless, just like the cosmos which we are an integral part of.

But if you are reading this, then we could use your help too: believe in us; we believe in you too :)
~One Love~
Jonathan

Thursday, July 2, 2009


6 months of rations - over 1,ooo meals - 28 mail drops -planned - shopped - ordered - cooked - dehydrated - measured - calculated - packaged - vacume sealed - boxed for mailing