Vermont's Green Mountains: (a long catch-up entry)

As the primary recorder of this journey, now that school is back in session, I'm falling behind. This entry is a catch-up of the last couple of phone calls.

Jonathan's last entry explained the circumstances that led up to their stay with the "old hippie couple", Chris and Arla, (who are most likely old like me). Chris and Arla also had a a young retriever puppy named Marley, whose company Madeline enjoyed immensely. The hikers decided to stay a second day with this couple because of a headache and dizziness on Madeline's part that following day as they were preparing to leave. As the day wore on, Madeline felt better. They were joined by other hikers, Lion King, What, Dana and Mark Trails. This group of 6 went to a karaoke bar that second night and all took their turn with the microphone. Jonathan sang Beatle's song, You've Got to Hide Your Love Away; Madeline sang Anyone Can Whistle, (from the musical of the same name) and with Mark Trails, Elton John's Rocket Man. A local in the bar bought all the hikers, (Madeline excluded), a pint of beer. They had a blast.

Mark Trails is the first and only person of color they have met on the trail. Mark is African American and has been on the trail since Harper's Ferry, VA and has met but one other non-white, a Hispanic man. He described their meeting like a family reunion; they both dropped their packs and embraced. Apparently the trail is very white. Mark is hiking to Mount Katahdin, the trial's northern most point in the US, and then continuing on into Canada where he will meet up with his wife and kids.

The following day as they were preparing to return to the trail, tragically, the puppy, Marley, got loose and life came to an abrupt halt under the wheels of a jeep. It was a very emotional experience for all. Madeline was inconsolable. They stayed well into the afternoon with Chris and Arla, sharing their grief, and taking part in the burial ceremony. Their start back to the trail was much later than intended; their mileage minimal that day. Chris and Arla called them, perhaps it was the following day, to let them know they had returned to the shelter where they had gotten Marley and brought home another retriever puppy, who they strongly suspect to be Marley's sister.

They have had some stretches of beautiful weather, some hot and muggy, and some rain. Bugs have not been a problem of late. The Green Mountains are hardwood forests, super dense with foliage, many ferns, and very green. They have seen tiny little golden salamanders, only about 1 inch long. They are on a very crowded stretch of trail right now. There is another trail, the Long Trail, that runs into Canada, but shares a 100 mile stretch of trail with the AT. This is the section they are on and this is what accounts for the crowds. Shelters are crowded so they have been tenting, but even tenting spaces can be scarce.

They climbed a fire tower atop Raspberry Mountain for an incredibly awesome view. They have also passed over Glastenbury Mountain in an area known as the Bennington Triangle, an area in which there has been the mysterious disappearance of a number of people over many years. Legend has it that Native Americans considered this area cursed and avoided this mountain area. There is an abandoned campsite in the area which because of the nature of the equipment, it is believed by hikers to be staged by locals to play up the creepiness of the mood surrounding the area. No backpacker could actually hike with the equipment left behind at this campsite. They have blue blazed around one mountain on a day when Jonathan was feeling especially drained. The blue blaze trails are alternate paths to the standard white blaze paths. In this case, I believe the blue blaze went around the mountain rather than over it. Many a hiker will take advantage of a blue blaze trail now and again as needed.

They were headed into Manchester, VT for a mail drop pick-up and planned to stay at a hostel there where for $15 you got a bunk, a pint of Ben and Jerry's, free milk, eggs and soda. They were hiking at that point with a hiker named Hitch, a man in his 40's who is doing a portion of the Long Trail. When they were not able to hitch a ride from the trail into Manchester, Hitch called a cab and allowed Madeline and Jonathan to join him for the ride into Manchester. Because the hostel was full, our hikers planned on just returning directly to the trail. Hitch, however, was going to take a few days off the trail because of blisters, and had gotten a room at Sutton's Place, a local Inn. He invited Madeline and Jonathan to join him for the night; there was ample room with 3 beds, a common living room and shared bathroom. They got showers, did laundry, took Hitch out for pizza and Madeline vegged in front of the TV in the common living room.

Madeline has acquired holes in the rather sturdy seats of both her hiking pants which she has had to sew up. She says their laundry comes out remarkably clean. One of Jonathan's two hiking shirts is yellow and Madeline says it goes into the washer looking totally brown, and comes out amazingly yellow again. Madeline's ankle continues to be a problem. It is weakened with injury and so although she keeps it wrapped, she repeatedly retwists it. Add Jonathan's head lamp to the list of lost items thus far.

And so our hikers continue to fall further behind their original schedule. Jonathan said the days of hiking through the mud pits was especially slow going. Boots become very heavy and it was difficult to find footing. Each step was laborious. But as for schedules, it no longer matters to them what kind of schedule they keep; a schedule does not steer their course. It is the journey that matters and the events of each day. It is the people they meet, the kindness they encounter. Aside from the delays generated through adversity - lost possessions, illness, injury, weather and weariness, many of their delays are self imposed. They detour to treat their weary bodies, take advantage of hospitality offered, linger longer than intended for just the pleasure of an experience or the company at hand. In Jonathan's words, "it's all good". It's the journey, not the schedule and they are drawing each essence of pleasure from its' many diverse moments. In terms of timing, what will be, will be. ~Amy